Carnegie’s

53-55 Lockhart Rd T2866 6289. Daily 11am-3am. The noise level here means conversation is only possible by flash cards; once it’s packed, hordes of punters keen to revel the night away fight for dancing space on the bar. Home of the much-talked-about topless barman (Wednesday night), plus occasional riotous club nights and regular live music.

Devil’s Advocate

48-50 Lockhart Rd T2865 7271. Daily 11am-late. Hugely popular at the moment, especially with young office workers and expats - rotten juke-box selection, though. Cheap soft drinks at lunchtime.

Dickens Sports Bar

Lower Ground Floor, Excelsior Hotel, 281 Gloucester Rd T2837 6782. Mon-Thurs & Sun 11am-2am, Fri & Sat 11am-3am. This bar prides itself on re-creating an authentic British atmosphere: the kitchen dishes up genuine British pub grub, the TV airs British sitcoms, and there are English papers to read. One of the few decent hotel bars.

Dusk Till Dawn

76 Jaffe Rd T2528 4689. Mon-Sat noon-6am, Sun 3pm-6am; happy hour 5-11pm. Vaguely Mediterranean colours decorate this rowdy bar, full of loud live music, raucous staff , and hoarse punters.

Horse and Groom

161 Lockhart Rd T2507 2517. Mon-Sat 11am-4.30am, Sun 7pm-4am; happy hour Sat 6-9pm, Sun 8-10pm. Large, dark venue with wreathes of wrought iron and neon. The cheap drinks and Western pub food attract a good mixed crowd of expats and locals.

Joe Banana’s

23 Luard Rd T2529 1811. Mon-Thurs 11.30am-5am, Fri & Sat 11.30am-6am, Sun 5pm-5am; happy hour noon-10pm.

Unsophisticated American bar with a late disco, fake palms, and occasional live music. You need to be (or look) 21 to get in and there’s a strict door policy - men need a shirt with a collar.

Old China Hand

104 Lockhart Rd T2527 9174. Mon-Sat 24hr, Sun 9am-2am. Pub for hard-core drinkers, hungover clubbers (who come for breakfast), embittered, seedy expats acting the part, and those with a taste for loud music.

The Royal’s

21 Cannon St T2832 7879. Daily 11am-2am. Dark, rowdy Chinese bar where you can watch the locals playing dice, accompanied by a loud Cantopop soundtrack.

Tango Martini

3rd Floor, Empire Land Commercial Centre, 81-85 Lockhart Rd T2528 0855. Mon-Fri noon-3pm & 6pm- 2am, Sat & Sun 6pm-2am. This lounge-style bar-and-restaurant features comfy tiger-print couches and chairs and more than 201 martinis, setting it apart from most of Wan Chai’s gritty establishments. Chic and expensive - you’ll either love it or hate it.

Wanch

54 Jaffe Rd T2861 1621. Mon-Sat 11am-2am, Sun noon-2am. A Wan Chai institution, this tiny, unpretentious bar is jostling and friendly and has live music - usually folk and rock - every night. Also serves cheap, chunky cheeseburgers and sandwiches.