Shau Kei Wan Mon-Wed & Fri-Sun 10am-5pm. $10, free on Wed. MTR, tram or bus #2 from Central to Shau Kei Wan, then a signed 1km walk along Shau Kei Wan Main St. The Museum of Coastal Defence occupies the site of the Lei Yue Mun Fort, built by the British in 1887 to defend Victoria Harbour. The bulk of the museum is set in the renovated redoubt, the exhibition rooms reached by a maze of brick tunnels. The museum covers all stages of Hong Kong’s maritime history, and exhibits include an opium-pipe display, moving letters from prisoners of war under the Japanese, and the richly embroidered satin army uniforms of Ming and Qing dynasty soldiers, studded with iron rivets. Outside, accompanied by stunning views of the rugged eastern end of Victoria Harbour, there’s a marked trail past restored gun emplacements, underground magazines, a torpedo station and a gunpowder factory.