The Sai Kung Peninsula encompasses 75 square kilometres of unpolluted headlands, coves, woodland and beaches in Hong Kong’s easternmost reaches. Some parts are very wild, but there are also marked paths and lots of quiet places for a picnic, despite the peninsula’s increasing popularity.

Sai Kung town (bus #92 from Diamond Hill MTR or Choi Hung MTR) is the main gateway, a pleasant blend of fishing port and low-key tourist retreat with a daily fish market (6-11am), some good seafood restaurants serving “bamboo fish”, and a few bars. You can catch kaidos (on-demand ferries) from the jetty here to nearby islands and beaches; the most popular trip is the short run across to Kiu Tsui Chau (Sharp Island, about $25 return), whose small main beach at Hap Mun Bay, hemmed in by green headlands, is one of the prettiest in the area, although prone to weekend crowds.

Bus #94 (daily 6.30am-9pm) runs from Sai Kung’s bus terminus to Pak Tam Chung, start of the MacLehose Trail and site of the Sai Kung Peninsula visitors’ centre (Mon, Wed-Sun 9.30am-4.30pm; T2792 7365) and nearby Sheung Yiu Folk Museum (Mon, Wed-Sun 9am-4pm; free), based around an abandoned, traditional walled village. The first stage of the MacLehose Trail runs southeast from here around the High Island Reservoir, an easy walk along a vehicle track - the manmade “water and hills” scenery is a little bland, however.

The Sai Kung Peninsula’s north coast is fairly inaccessible, though it can be seen easily enough by riding the ferry (daily 8.30am & 3pm, extra departure 10.35am Sat & Sun; $25) through the Tolo Channel to Tap Mun Chau island from Ma Liu Shui jetty (a signposted ten-minute walk from University KCR). The 75-minute ride makes for a fine trip to soak up the views: the early morning departure calls at isolated bays along Sai Kung’s northern coast.

There’s not much to do on grassy Tap Man Chau island, however, except get lunch at one of the cheap restaurants near the pier; there’s no accommodation on the island, so don’t miss the last boat back.