Lamma is an elongated fourteen-square-kilometres of land inhabited by five thousand people, with well-marked paths linking its settlements to small beaches, green hilltops, and pleasant seascapes. Yung Shue Wan is a pretty, tree-shaded village at the northwestern end of the island where the bulk of Lamma’s residents live, and the main ferry terminus. There’s a gloomy, century-old Tin Hau temple here but otherwise nothing to stop you beginning the walk across the island.

Twenty minutes along a good concrete path is Hung Shing Ye, where there’s a tiny, shaded sand beach with barbecue pits, a couple of places to eat and drink, and unfortunately close views of the power station.

The path continues around the beach and up the hill on the other side, before levelling out at a viewing point marked by a Chinese pavilion. Carry on down the hill, past the vast cement works to your left, to some houses, from where sidetracks lead to Lo So Shing, another beach with changing rooms, showers, a snack kiosk and more barbecue pits.

At the end of the main path (around 5km, or 1hr 30min on foot from Yung Shue Wan), Sok Kwu Wan is a fish-farming village and second ferry terminus for Hong Kong Island; floating wooden frames cover the water, interspersed with rowing boats, junks and the canvas shelters of the fishermen and women. There’s another Tin Hau temple here by the main pier, along which Sok Kwu Wan’s seafood restaurants form a line, with outdoor tables overlooking the bay, and large fish tanks set back on the street.

Some restaurants have English menus, but always ask the price first, particularly if you’re choosing your fish straight from the tank.

Walking tracks link Sok Kwu Wan, via the small village of Mo Tat Wan, to spacious Shek Pai Wan beach on Lamma’s southeastern coast - about an hour’s walk in all.

There’s also a trail from Sok Kwu Wan up to the summit of Mount Stenhouse (also known as Shan Tei Tong), 353m up in the middle of the island’s southwestern bulge - it’s a two hour hike each way, with fine views as the reward.