The Mid-Levels Escalator makes it easy to reach a district recently christened SoHo, as in South of Hollywood Road, although it now also extends north into Peel, Wellington and Gage streets. There are dozens of restaurants and bars here, opening, closing and changing their name and cuisine every month. The area’s daytime appeal is mainly down to a few old-style shophouses, and while the tide of gentrification is strong (florists, interior decorators and antique shops have all moved in), you’ll still find the sort of practical outlets - butchers, hardware shops and rice sellers - that tell you this remains a real Chinese neighbourhood.