Caine Road is Mid-Levels’ main artery, leading past the Roman Catholic cathedral to Shelley Street, a left turn up which is the Jamia Mosque, a focus for the territory’s fifty thousand Muslims. The present building dates from 1915, a pale-green structure set in its own quiet, raised courtyard above the surrounding terraces (there’s no public entry).

West on busy Robinson Road, stairs lead down to the whitewashed Ohel Leah Synagogue, lurking in its own quiet, leafy hollow below the main road. The territory’s bestknown synagogue, it was built by the wealthy Sassoon family in 1902. Great care has recently been taken to restore the oakcarved and painted interior, although unfortunately security concerns make it difficult to simply drop in for a look round - if you want to go in, bring ID and ask at the entrance.