Tsim Sha Tsui’s Star Ferry Pier is sited at Kowloon’s southwestern tip; immediately outside is a 45-metre-high clocktower, dating from 1921, the only remnant of the grand train station which once welcomed rail services from Europe. The ferry terminal sits at the bottom of a series of interconnected, upmarket shopping malls running up the western side of Tsim Sha Tsui’s waterfront, one of the largest such complexes in Asia. The first section, Ocean Terminal, is where cruise liners and visiting warships dock; exclusive boutiques line the confusing maze of galleries that link it with the adjacent Ocean Centre, and, the next block up, Harbour City - between them they boast several hotels, restaurants and a good number of exorbitantly priced clothes and shoes stores. To exit the mall at any stage, signs direct you out onto Canton Road, which runs northwards. East off it, just down Peking Road, One Peking Road is Tsim Sha Tsui’s first example of Centralstyle modern architecture, a 160-metre-high, glassy, bowfronted edifice whose upper floors are mostly restaurants, all with excellent harbour views. Back on Canton Road, continue north and you’ll pass the China Ferry Terminal, another block of shops and restaurants set around the terminal for vessels shuttling back and forth between China and Macau.