Hong Kong’s cross-harbour ferries (daily 6-7am until 7-11pm, depending on the service; every few min) link northshore Hong Kong Island with Kowloon - they are suspended, though, in bad weather. The most famous vessel is the Star Ferry between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, though there are several other vessels and alternative routes, including one between Wan Chai and Tsim Sha Tsui - see the map.

Most inter-island ferries leave from the Outlying Islands Ferry Piers in front of the IFC2 tower in Central, with a few departing Tsim Sha Tsui’s Star Ferry terminal.

Double-decker trams (6am-1am) rattle along the north shore of Hong Kong Island, linking Western, Central, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay; some detour around Happy Valley racecourse. You alight at the back and pay the flat HK$2 fare as you exit from the front. Destinations are marked on the front in English.

Hong Kong’s buses (6am-midnight; skeleton night bus service after midnight) cover just about every corner of the SAR.

Each bus is marked with the destination in English and a number, along with a letter: “K” or “M” means that it links with a KCR or MTR station respectively; “R” buses only run on Sundays and public holidays; and “X” buses are express services with limited stops. Fares cost between HK$1.20 and HK$35 a trip - the amount is posted at bus stops and on the buses as you get on. Put the exact fare into the box by the driver; no change is given. For route maps and timetables, contact the Hong Kong Tourism Board.

Hong Kong’s KCR (5.30am-1am; every 3-10min) serves the New Territories with three lines: KCR East, running via Sha Tin, Tai Po and Sheung Shui to the Chinese border at Lo Wu (you can only go as far as Sheung Shui without a Chinese visa); and the Ma On Shan Line and KCR West, which are of less use to visitors.

One-way tickets cost between HK$3.50 and HK$9 depending on the length of your journey, with a first-class compartment for double the standard fare. There’s a HK$100 fine for fare evasion, or travelling first-class with an ordinary ticket.

Hong Kong’s speedy underground MTR (daily 6am-1am; trains every few min) has five colour-coded lines which cover Hong Kong Island’s north shore, much of Kowloon, and some parts of the New Territories, as well as Lantau.

All signs and maps displayed in the system are in both Chinese and English.

Tickets cost between HK$4 and HK$26 for a one-way journey, and are only valid for ninety minutes. Ticket machines are on the station concourse - some don’t give change and some only take coins; there’s a HK$5000 fine for fare evasion.

The MTR is extremely crowded during rush hour (8-9.30am & 5.30-7pm) and is best avoided then if possible.